Martín Berasategui, the Spanish chef with the most Michelin Stars and Repsol Suns, whose cuisine we are privileged to enjoy in Bilbao.
His journey began at the iconic Bodegón Alejandro, in the heart of San Sebastián’s Old Town, and was enriched through learning alongside legendary figures such as Alain Ducasse and Didier Oudill. In 1993, together with his wife Oneka Arregui, he opened the doors of the now-famous Restaurante Martín Berasategui in Lasarte-Oria, swiftly earning the first of his many Michelin Stars. Today, he holds 11 Michelin Stars across several restaurants in Spain, including Ola Martín Berasategui in Bilbao.
He has also been honored with awards such as the Gold Medal for Merit in Fine Arts, and his iconic expression “Garrote” has become part of the RAE’s Historical Dictionary.
In this exclusive interview for our magazine, Martín Berasategui shares his vision of cuisine, the importance of Bilbao in his gastronomic world, and reveals the secrets of a journey full of flavor, passion, and effort.
Vizcayan cuisine complements the traditional Basque repertoire, and for me, it is a pride to have a spot near the Ribera Market. I soak up everything I see and what the local produce offers me wherever I go and wherever I am, and cooking in Bilbao is a dream for me.
Hotel Tayko is a gem, and it’s a luxury for me to find my place within its architecture and to be able to serve the guests who come to my tables. The essence is to offer avant-garde haute cuisine adapted to the local market basket and to maintain that quality across all menus, at all times.
The Bilbao diner is just as demanding as those anywhere else in the world, and my teams and I work to offer them our best cuisine and the finest ingredients cooked to perfection. With Raúl Cabrera as head chef and Cristina in the dining room, we strive to make sure they want to come back and visit us again.
It’s a source of pride because it’s an expression that identifies me and of which I am very proud. It means effort, determination, perseverance, and maintaining enthusiasm. Now more than ever, we need a lot of “garrote” to keep fighting with passion for things at home and at work.
Inspiration is remembering the energy and good vibes that existed in that kitchen, the whole family united in running the business. I had the feeling that the customers were like family too because an incredible bond was created among everyone. Those were different times, and that atmosphere was my true university.
My goal is for the customers to enjoy themselves—they are the kings of the experience. To achieve this, I balance my experience and craft as a chef, since we are artisans of food, with the best ingredients I can find, which is a titanic task requiring a lot of energy. I surround myself with the best suppliers who fill my shopping basket with incredible treats. I also complement my work on the tableware with a unique front-of-house service that completes the experience because the work of Oneka, Jose, and the entire team closes the circle.
Work hard, be curious, and train in every possible discipline—pastry, bakery, confectionery, charcuterie, savory cooking—anything that adds to your knowledge contributes to your growth. And work with dignity, no matter the league you play in, because my work is just as important as that of a cook preparing meals in a hospital or for children at a school.
My family is my team, and we try to support each other so we can work with enthusiasm and a desire to tackle the challenges of each day. Specifically, I focus on the kitchen, Oneka and my son-in-law Jose take care of everything that happens in the dining room, and Ane is in charge of communications. I always like to say that there’s no need to worry too much — what you have to do is take action — and that’s what we dedicate ourselves to every day so that our guests leave our restaurants happy.
Tenacity, enthusiasm, order, and a smile — it’s essential that we enjoy cooking, and for that, you need skill and the right attitude. You have to spread that passion to everyone so that we can truly shine.
I believe that I have adapted at every moment to the times I’ve had to live through, and I’m still as happy as I was on the very first day I started in this profession. In addition, I have never felt fear, laziness, or shame — and the results speak for themselves.
With the latest dessert I’ve created, which isn’t on the menu yet: a rum and orange ice cream, with saffron jelly, salted macadamia brittle, a hazelnut bonbon, and a cocoa sponge. It’s light, elegant, and refreshing—the kind of dessert I love that perfectly finishes a meal.
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